Nevertheless, the number of design variants of threads created from various types of fancy thread is infinite. Ring spinning, Rotor spinning, wrap spinning, Air-jet spinning etc. It is a platform to express your knowledge throughout the world. Cor-respondingly, the warp and weft densities were arrived at 53 and 33/cm respectively. Typically, slubs are randomly and irregularly spaced along the yarn axis. Bias: the diagonal or cross grain of a woven fabric. Textured and many other fancy yarns can easily be knitted and converted to light weight fashion garments. Effect of Yarn Twist Direction and Woven Design on Certain Novelty Fabrics from Cotton/Polyester Trilobal Filament 3-ply Yarn ... because of the loose structure of the sateen weaves. The basic twill types: straight, point, extended point, and broken twills; ... Twill with Novelty Yarn. Similarly to the ring system, the production of a fancy yarn with a hollow spindle requires three different components: core, effect and binder. Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves Apart from these, there are many other novelty yarns like Chenille, Flake, metallic and textured yarns. THOMANNY, U. I.; ERMANNI, P.: The influence of yarn structure and processing conditions on the laminate quality of stampformed carbon and thermoplastic polymer fiber commingled yarns. Continuous filament yarn Continuous filament yarns are the simplest in the structure. Novelty yarns are often weak and have poor abrasion resistance. A combination of both can produce slub/, Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology. Spiral = Mock spiral, mouliné, jaspé, Gimp = Frisé, caterpillar, ondé, Slub = Ground slub, injected slub, injected flame (also called tear-off flame), Knop = Knot, nep, noppé, button, reverse caterpillar, flake, Loop = Bouclé, frotté, prong, mock-spun chenille, Chenille = Woven chenille, plied chenille, Figure-2: Structure of fancy yarns with type of effects, Yarn not found available or yarn delivery is delay, Fancy Yarn | Types and Classification of Fancy Yarns | Basic Principle of Fancy Yarn, Basic Parts of Sewing Machine and Its Function, Step by Step Fashion Design Development Process, Different Types of Seams and Their Uses on Garments. In addition, the possibility of using a wide range of fibers including low quality fibers and a variety of fiber wastes also adds to the overall reduction in manufacturing cost [1]. Both gimp and ratiné yarns (Fig. Download . A combination of both can produce slub/fancy yarns. Loop yarns are frequently used in coating and suiting fabrics, for interior furnishings and for speciality fabrics, either knit or woven. 13.4. Various fancys By definition, fancy yarns are any type of yarn with a deliberate interruption or discontinuity in color or form. The way that fibers are spun and twisted determines a yarn’s structure. Plied yarns are produced by twisting two or more single yarns. Today, yarn spinning or production is a highly advanced technology that enables the engineering of different yarn structures having specifically desired properties suited for particular end use applications. Warp knitting is a family of knitting methods in which the yarn zigzags along the length of the fabric; i.e., following adjacent columns, or wales, of knitting, rather than a single row, or course.For comparison, knitting across the width of the fabric is called weft knitting. The binder strand is usually small and is often not readily visible. Sharing Knowledge: Students, teachers and professionals can publish your article here. knit - basic stitch; wales = front, courses = back 2. purl - reverse of knit stitch courses = front, wales = back 3. miss - float stitch used to create color effects 4. tuck - elongated skipped stitch that creates holes in fabric; used to create lacy, textural design effects. Seamless garments can directly be made in knitting. In a slash yarn, the enlarged area is longer and thinner than in a nub yarn [4]. … A thick-and-thin yarn is typically a multifilament yarn in which diameter variations are deliberately induced by variation in the filament flow rate through the spinneret during extrusion. flat chenille threads) and cylindrical chenille threads, where the pile is distributed regularly and spatially around the longitudinal axis. Thus, the core and the effect components pass through a roller drafting unit (though having different paths) and enter the axial inlet of the hollow spindle. In general, fancy yarns may be divided into two major categories:4,7,15 mono-fancy yarns and compound fancy yarns. Hollow spindle spinning gives the possibility of integrating the two stages of the traditional ring system into one. Classification according to their structure; The yarn may be divided into three types according to their structure. S-twist: Definition. In the context of design, it is important to point out that in addition to the deliberate irregularities induced in fancy yarns, fiber strands of different physical characteristics can also be used to make fancy yarns [4,7]. Knitting is more flexible than weaving, i.e. The basic structure of a gimp yarn is illustrated in Figure-6 . Developments in spinning, however, have led to new spinning systems including ‘open-end’, ‘self-twist’ and ‘jet’ spinning. The idea of a compound fancy yarn is to combine two or three strands together so that one of them acts as the fancy or effect strand, another acts as the yarn core and perhaps a third one acts as a binder to secure the effect strand to the core strand. This is one type of novelty yarn. Typical fancy yarns include snarl, spiral, loop, chenille, slub and nep. C. reed. These fabrics are used for many products such as dresses, draperies, and bedspreads. ASTM defines a fancy yarn as a yarn that differs significantly from the normal appearance of single or plied yarns due to the presence of irregularities deliberately produced during its formation. (Fig. Novelty yarn is a relatively new trend that has enabled a variety of new looks for knitters who prefer to depart from traditional yarn. In general, fancy yarns may be divided into two major categories [4,7,18]: monofancy yarns and compound fancy yarns. Natural fibres, including some linens, wools to be woven… In woven fabrics, the yarns may be laid so that all the tufts lie on one side of the fabric or so that some tufts appear on both the face and the back. 9.6C–J are listed in the order of their prominence if they are visualized side by side in a piece of fabric. Unfortunately, the introduction of thermoplastic thread to the structure of chenille raises the price of the yarn and only a few producers of chenille thread can afford to adopt such an innovation. Classification of yarn according to structure: Continuous filament yarn Staple yarn Core spun yarn Novelty yarn Stretch yarn High bulk yarn 7. All the yarns listed may be found in any fiber. The binder. Texturized yarns made exclusively from continuous filaments can also be considered as a form of fancy yarns. Ply Yarns are Ratine, Spiral, Knot, Snarl and Boucle. R. Wright, in Specialist Yarn and Fabric Structures, 2011. These fabrics are used for many products such as dresses, draperies and bedspreads. When this situation is reversed (i.e., a soft and bulky strand spiraling around a fine strand), the yarn is commonly called a spiral fancy yarn. Fancy yarns have wide-ranging application in apparel at all levels of the market. They are suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and rope making.However, fancy yarn deviates from the normal yarns. It has many desirable fibre properties making it an important fibre for textile applications. The wrapping filament is the only one that imparts the necessary cohesion – Fig. Video Lesson: Twill Gamps. All textile yarn is classified according to structure, or how they are made. Additionally, what is fancy yarn in textile? Made of synthetic fibers these yarn blends, novelty yarns provide texture and interest. When the color-printed fragment of combed tape has been treated by this process, the color printing is elongated and blurred to produce a rainbow effect in the ready yarn. Yehia E. Elmogahzy, in Engineering Textiles (Second Edition), 2020. Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with unusual features, structure or fiber composition such as slubs, inclusions, metallic or synthetic fibers, laddering and varying thickness introduced during production. As noted from the definition most fancy yarns are either single or plied. Under conditions of steam and high temperature, a thin filament thread with the heat-shrinkage property can tend to get inside the yarn core and modify the structure of the smooth thread. Novelty yarn: Definition. The thread does not create problems during processing due to the selection of optimal raw materials. It is composed of two 1/1 ribs interlocked together with crossed sinker wales (Figure 1 a). We use cookies to help provide and enhance our service and tailor content and ads. The softness of chenille yarns makes them vulnerable to rubbing; consequently, fabrics containing them do not wear well because of a low abrasion resistance.4,15 Chenille yarns are used as crosswise yarns in a woven fabric to create a velvet-like surface or occasionally placed in the filling to add surface effects. Varying widths and colors, laddering, twists and curls define this category of wonderfully unique yarns. Slub yarns are made by uneven twisting of yarns creating thick and thin areas. For example, fancy yarns that are a result of induced irregularities and discontinuities require quality constraints and testing procedures that are much less than those implemented for traditional yarns. Knitted garments have very good demand in export market. Cotton melange yarn has been highly successful in enhancing the appeal of knitted garments such as T-shirts, etc. They are made by introducing spiral forms of irregularity or hairiness into either spun continuous filament yarn. Fancy yarn, sometimes known as novelty yarn is a yarn that is made with a distinctive irregular profile or a construction that differs from basic single and folded yarns, the objective of which is to enhance the aesthetics of the end product with respect to visual and textural properties. Another member of the group of threads with continuous effect is loop-thread. consists of two or more strands of fibers held together by twist or some other mechanism ... narrow ribbon-like fabrics with one or more rows of stitched thread forming the basic structure of the yarn: Term. R.A. 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2020 basic structure of novelty yarn